It's south of the town of Limon, a port city, which has the distinction of being the ugliest part of Costa Rica I've seen. Limon is where all the shipments of supplies come in and go out, so there's trailers and warehouses everywhere. The streets are filled with trash and litter, and they just burn big piles of it on the side of the street.
Burning piles of excess foliage is very common on the Caribbean coast but this was the only place I saw trash piles. Limon is the only place Cruise Ships can dock. That may contribute to the bad rep many tourists have of the Carribean coast in Costa Rica. Some things are true, others exaggerated. The crime is worse and there are more drugs, but if you take the proper precautions you'll be fine.
I lived in Puerto Viejo for 10 days or so. Time kind of stands still there so I lost track. I really mean this, time passes by at an extremely slow pace. No one is in a rush to do anything really. Most of the locals have Jamaican blood, their ancestors were shipped in to work in the banana fields long ago. Jamaican flags fly everywhere along with Rasta colors. You can find images of Bob Marley on anything and everything. He is a God there.
Racial segregation laws quarantined this part of Costa Rica until the 1960's, so it is still relatively poor and isolated compared to the rest of the country. The indigenous Bri Bri tribe live in the jungles way back behind the coast and are actually the voting majority. I never met one or took a tour to see them, but I wish I had.
The smell of marijuana is ever present. Just walk through the one main street in town and you are guaranteed to get at least one whiff of wacky tobacky. There is more supply than demand, you will be asked several times a day if you would like buy some. It's smoked openly and non-discreetly. Cops walk right past people doing it. Technically it's illegal, but so prevalent in the culture, and there's much bigger problems to worry about, so they just let them smoke. I'm not a smoker, but I don't mind those that do, and I would love to see the US adopt the same policy. Alcohol is a much more dangerous drug.
I didn't see any violence, but there were guns here. One night out at a bar on the beach, the bartender came out to fire off a few rounds into the air letting patrons know it's time to leave.
Men and women both have some of the gnarliest looking dreadlocks you'll ever see.
Reggae music is played everywhere, and I saw some really great live entertainment. There is a big party going on every night along the clubs that line the beach in Puerto Viejo.
Further south, 13 kilometers, is Manzanillo, home of some of the prettiest undisturbed beaches in Costa Rica. Crystal clear turquoise water, jungle that goes all the way to the whitish-sand beach, a living coral reef. I went snorkeling there and its an experience I will never forget. Neon multicolored fish, beautiful and unusual looking coral.
Its too bad afterwards my Swiss friend and I returned to find his rental car broken into. My iPhone, locked in the glovebox, was stolen, along with his camera and his laptop. I've since learned, traveling rule #1 : never leave anything valuable in a car. Ever.
The weather was a wet jungle humid climate. I mean really humid, Houston has nothing on this place. Everything you touch is wet. Usually there it would be sunny with several showers in the afternoon or evening.
One night I experienced torrential rain like I've never seen. Literally a wall of water coming down at once, you couldnt see a foot. Nothing like I've seen even in the worst Texas storms. My roof leaked onto my bed that night.
Puerto Viejo and Tamarindo are so different. There's no a/c there, just fans on the floor. The only place I found with a/c was the bank. I LOVED going to the ATM for this reason. As I've said before I adapted to the extreme humidity after awhile, but still, I prefer a/c. The first few days I was covered in sweat.
It does get cooler there at night then it does here though. Several nights I'd wake up cold, and actually turn my fan off!
Puerto Viejo is a hippie's paradise and a great place to visit, I wouldn't want to live there but definitely should be a destination for any Costa Rican backpacker.
Below are several pictures I took before my iPhone was stolen and then several others from an Australian girl I met in Tamarindo who visited several days after me. Remember you can click on the picture to enlarge.
Front door and patio to my first apartment. Thick jungle in the background.
Path to the community sink for the cabinas.
The main street in town, lined with vendors, sodas, and bars.
An abandoned barge that a lot of the local kids jump and fish off.
Near the bus station and town map.
The police station where my friend and I went after getting robbed.
Local fruit vendor.
Fishing boats.
Some native flora.
Welcome sign to Manzanillo.
Beach near Manzanillo.
Manzanillo beach. I went snorkeling just beyond here.
The waves break very close to the steep shore on this coast. This beach is Playa Negra, named for the black sand. My cabina was about 50 meters behind it.
More of Playa Negra.
They like to paint the trunks of the palm trees bright colors.
This is right in front of where I was staying.
An island off of Playa Cocles, a beach good for surfing south of PV. If I had stayed longer I planned on snorkeling out to that island.
Playa Cocles...my favorite hangout spot there. Luckily it was much sunnier when I visited.
Howler monkey in a tree. You never want to stand directly underneath one, because they poop their own weight by the hour. I got to hold a few of these guys at an animal refuge. I'll make a separate entry on that experience soon.
Rasta!
Paradise.
Tasty waves cantina! Great place for smoothies, tacos, and cocktails run by a nice couple from San Diego, California. They would stay open late every Tuesday and have performers come do fire shows with flaming sticks.
The cops would come by to ask about the "noise" , usually one armed with an MP-5 machine gun strapped around his shoulder. Give them all Cokes and everything was cool.
I love these beautiful birds. A few have even let me pet them.
Gorgeous pictures! Glad you managed to get some of your first place in Puerto Viejo. (and thanks for that insight into the elimination habits of howler monkeys!)
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