finally some big swells out in the pacific today. I was actually able to get up a few times and surf about 40 meters in all the way to the shore. Surfing is addicting, I see why it has so many followers and devotees that travel to the ends of the earth just to catch a big wave.
The moment you start paddling as this big wave heads towards you is exhilarating. Once you get into it the wave and your board picks up speed it's pure adrenaline from there. It takes better balance than any sport I've ever done, including water-skiing(slaloming), wakeboarding, kneeboarding, whatever.
I'm still getting the hang of it, today was only my second try, but I think I can get good at this.
I had some pretty big wipeouts, falling off the left every time. Wiping out can be fun too, cause the wave sucks you back in and carries you and your board wherever it goes.
There's one really good spot in Playa Grande just about everyone goes to surf, called Witch's Rock or Ollie's Point I think. It can get real crowded with people learning lessons and guys that really know what theyre doing, so you have to pick out a little spot for yourself. I cant imagine what it's like during the busy season. I'm afraid of running over someone standing up in the water.
The board i'm using is a longboard and soft top, meaning it has foam padding. For beginners. The advanced boards are shorter and have no padding. Wax is applied for grip. Getting up and and swimming on your board can be really rough on the skin on your chest and nipples so a lot of people wear a rash guard(thin skintight nylon). I found this out the hard way on day 1.
I think I may be too heavy for the board I used. It kept going underwater, which usually means youre standing to far forward but if you stand too far back the wave goes under you. One wave was surfed with my board submerged a couple of inches.
It was again raining all day, not too hard just a light sprinkle. The sky towards the north was a beautiful grey-blue, which really made the already vibrant green of the trees and mountains pop. I hope to have a camera soon cause I have to show yall what this looks like. The mountains/hills around here are high enough for their summits to be covered in clouds on days like this.
I hope I never meet a saltwater croc.
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